Buying leather: leather industry terms

The leather industry is filled with complex terminology that can make consumers feel confused and unsure about their options. From different leather types to the specific production processes, the jargon can be quite intricate and sometimes misleading. Familiarity with key terms is beneficial when purchasing leather products, as it can provide insight into the quality, durability, and aging process of the item. I will attempt to clarify all these aspects here.

Full grain leather: The top grade of leather. It retains the original grain layer of the leather, making it the most durable grade on the list. It is usually only the best hides that get used for full grain leather, but you may still be able to see some natural characteristics of the hide (growth marks and scratches). It will look more natural if it is aniline dyed and hasn't been covered in a layer of pigment.

Top grain leather: Sometimes called corrected grain leather. Still a good grade of leather, but the grain layer has been sanded and buffed to give a more uniform appearance. This reduces the thickness of the grain layer and makes the leather less durable. Lower grade hides (more heavily marked and scarred) can be used for top grain leather as they will be cleaned up.

Split leather: Once the upper part of the leather containing the grain has been split away, this is what you are left with. Both sides of the leather will be flesh side, with no grain leather at all. Suede is commonly, but not always, made from split leather as the smoother grain layer is not needed here.

Genuine leather: A cheap grade of leather, usually a split leather with an imitation grain layer sprayed or stamped on. Not very durable and usually starts to fall apart quite quickly. A very common grade of leather.

Bonded leather: The chipboard of the leather world. Shredded scraps of leather bonded together with a polyurethane or latex binder. It is usually also fixed to a fabric backing.

It is not always the case here that one is better than the other. Full grain leather is generally regarded as the most premium grade, and it is usually the best hides that go into making it. It will also be the most durable and will be the one to go for if you want something that lasts a really long time. Top grain leathers are very commonly used in upholstery and fashion where a consistent, uniform look is more desirable.

Some other key terms to be aware of:

Suede is a type of leather that is known for its soft, velvety texture. It is made from the underside (flesh side) of animal hides, primarily from lamb, goat, or cow, which gives it a unique and luxurious feel. The process of creating suede involves removing the top layer of the skin, resulting in a material that is both breathable and supple. Suede is often used in fashion and upholstery, making it a popular choice for jackets, shoes, and handbags. However, it is important to note that suede can be more susceptible to stains and water damage compared to other types of leather, requiring special care and maintenance to preserve its appearance and durability.

It's important to note that there are two primary types of suede: split suede and rough-out suede, which is also referred to as full grain suede. Split suede is crafted from the lower layers of the hide after the grain layer is removed. In contrast, rough-out suede retains the grain layer but is used with the flesh side facing outward. Rough-out suede is significantly more durable than split suede and is typically more costly.

Nubuk is similar to suede but is made from the outer layer (grain layer) of the hide, which is sanded to create a soft, velvety surface. This type of leather is known for its durability and strength while still retaining a luxurious look and feel. Nubuk is often used in high-quality footwear and furniture, as it offers a combination of elegance and resilience. Like suede, nubuk also requires careful cleaning and protection to maintain its soft texture and prevent damage from spills or dirt.

Nappa: The term Nappa refers to a high-quality, soft leather that originates from Italy. It is characterized by its smooth, supple texture and is made from the hides of various animals, including lambs, goats, and cows. Nappa leather is renowned for its luxurious feel and is often used in premium products such as handbags, wallets, and high-end clothing. The tanning process for Nappa leather typically involves the use of oils and waxes, which enhance its softness and flexibility while providing a rich, deep color. Due to its softness, Nappa leather is also more prone to scratches and scuffs, so it requires proper care to maintain its pristine appearance.

Saffiano leather is a textured leather that is known for its distinctive crosshatch pattern and durability. This type of leather is typically made from calfskin and is treated with a special wax finish that makes it water-resistant and scratch-resistant. The name "Saffiano" comes from the Italian brand Prada, which popularized this type of leather in the fashion industry. Saffiano leather is often used in luxury handbags, wallets, and accessories due to its elegant appearance and practicality. Its unique texture not only adds visual interest but also enhances its durability, making it a favorite among those seeking both style and functionality. While this leather is traditionally a very high-quality, vegetable-tanned calfskin from Italy, there are many manufacturers around the world making cheap imitation, PU-coated leather with a crosshatch pattern stamped on it and calling it Saffiano leather.

Vegetable tanned: Vegetable tanning is one of the oldest methods of tanning leather, utilizing natural tannins derived from plant materials such as tree bark, leaves, and fruits. This process results in leather that often considered environmentally friendly, as it does not involve harsh chemicals. Vegetable-tanned leather is known for its firmness and ability to develop a rich patina over time, which adds character to the leather. It is often used in products that require durability, such as belts, saddles, and high-quality bags. However, vegetable-tanned leather can be more susceptible to water damage and stains, which means it requires careful maintenance to ensure longevity.

Chrome tanned: Chrome tanning is a modern method of tanning leather that involves the use of chromium salts, resulting in a softer and more pliable leather compared to vegetable tanning. This process is faster and more efficient, allowing for the production of leather in a variety of colors and finishes. Chrome-tanned leather is commonly used in the manufacturing of garments, upholstery, and accessories due to its versatility and durability. While it is less environmentally friendly than vegetable tanning, advancements in technology have led to more sustainable practices within the chrome tanning industry. Chrome-tanned leather is also known for its resistance to water and stains, making it a practical choice for everyday use.

Aniline leather is a type of dyed leather that retains the natural characteristics of the hide, including its grain and texture. This type of leather is dyed using transparent dyes, which allows the natural beauty of the leather to shine through. Aniline leather is known for its luxurious feel and rich color, making it a popular choice for high-end furniture and accessories. However, because it is not coated with a protective finish, aniline leather can be more susceptible to stains and wear, requiring regular maintenance and care to keep it looking its best. It is important for consumers to understand that while aniline leather offers unmatched beauty, it also demands a commitment to upkeep.

Semi-aniline leather is a hybrid between aniline and pigmented leather. It is dyed with transparent dyes like aniline leather but is also coated with a thin layer of pigment to provide added protection against stains and fading. This type of leather combines the natural look and feel of aniline leather with the durability of pigmented leather, making it a popular choice for furniture and automotive interiors. Semi-aniline leather offers a balance of beauty and practicality, allowing consumers to enjoy the luxurious appearance of natural leather while benefiting from increased resistance to everyday wear and tear. It is often favored for its versatility and ability to maintain its aesthetic appeal over time.

Pigment-dyed leather is treated with surface-applied pigments, differing from aniline dyeing, which penetrates deeply and highlights the hide's natural traits. This method produces a uniform color, ideal for leather goods needing consistency, like furniture, bags, and footwear. The dyeing process involves mixing pigments with a binding agent applied by spraying, rolling, or brushing, resulting in an opaque finish available in various colors and finishes. Pigment-dyed leather resists fading and wear, offering durability and easy maintenance due to its protective finish. However, it lacks the natural feel and breathability of aniline leather, which develops a soft patina over time. Despite this, its color consistency is advantageous for mass production, appealing to diverse consumer preferences across fashion, automotive, and interior design industries. While the pigment coating is durable, it can wear in high-stress areas and will eventually start to look scuffed, unlike aniline leather, which develops a desirable patina with marks over time.

Dyed through or struck through leather is a type of leather where the color penetrates deeply, unlike surface dyeing that only affects the outer layer. This results in a more durable, uniformly colored product. Preferred for high-quality goods, this technique ensures longevity and rich color, making it ideal for luxury items. It offers a variety of colors and finishes, allowing for unique designs. It is especially useful when applied to aniline leathers as these are more susceptible to picking up scratches. If the leather is dyed through, then the color under the scratch will be similar to the leather color, and the scratch can often be blended into the leather with careful buffing.